Noril­sk Rus­sia, north of the Arc­tic Cir­cle holds the largest-known nick­el, cop­per and pal­la­di­um reserves in the world. It is also one of the biggest pol­luters on earth. It was built by forced labour, through bouts of star­va­tion and an ever-present intense cold. And yet for one Mon­tréal song­writer, it is home.